Get some good hangers

Posted by

Kirby Allison's hanger
It’s easy to think that the shape or size of the hanger you put your jacket on doesn’t make any difference, but it does. Without adequate support, well made shoulders on a thin hanger can bend and distort, ruining the care that has been taken to make sure they fit properly.

How bespoke destroys shopping

Posted by

An image from Anderson & Sheppard's new blog, The Notebook
There’s a chance that, after you’ve had your first bespoke jacket made, you will still buy one off the rack. It’s so convenient, so quick, and you’re still used to a brand designing clothes for you, rather than doing it yourself. But once you’re bought that jacket, and worn both it and the bespoke number, regret will start to harass your waking mind. ‘Why did I do that? It just...

New at Oak: Gunmetal Finger Brace

Posted by

Gunmetal_finger_brace
This Gunmetal Finger Brace is new at Oak, and it features hinges at the knuckles for ease of movement. Dark and geometrically interesting, this finger brace is affordably priced considering the interest factor. Is it tough? Yes, but that doesn't mean it can't blend in with some of the more buttoned-up stuff in your wardrobe. Check it out from different angles when you click through. [$138 at...

Suede: A surprise, not a statement

Posted by

Alfred Sargent handgrade shoes - click here for their blog
G Bruce Boyer, one of the great menswear writers, admitted in his 1985 book Elegance that of the dozen or so pairs of shoes he owned, only two of them were not brown suede. It was, for him, a personal idiosyncrasy. Brown goes with almost anything (outside the most formal and business-driven events) and suede is a nice quirk to exchange for calf.

Archie Tan Vibram Brogue from Grenson

Posted by

grenson_brogues
The Archie Tan Vibram Sole Brogue has a perfectly undulating sole in contrasting cream, and the upper? It's all-business in glossy tan leather with classic brogue details. Grenson's heavier brogues might be more of a tough sell, but think about the difference they'll make when compared to thinner-soled versions. Grenson is an indispensable addition to the historical dresser's wardrobe, having...

Consider black suede bals

Posted by

Edward Green 'Shannon' boots
Black shoes are boring. That’s not the main reason I wear brown shoes more than black, but it’s a small contributory factor. Black shoes don’t have any of the advantages of patina – with brown you can build up a personality in polish over a number of years, creating an individual finish through the addition of layers of black to a chocolate shoe, or brown to a tan. You can’t do...

Bear in mind a suit’s balance

Posted by

A Henry Poole. Notice the balance around the fulcrum of the waist button
Balance is key to the shape of a suit. It is worth remembering that the next time you are commissioning something from the tailor, and adjusting the lapel width here, the jacket length there and demanding that the sleeve be that little bit shorter.

A Suitable Wardrobe store

Posted by

A Donegal shawl-collar jacket from A Suitable Wardrobe
For me, the most impressive thing about a designer or an entrepreneur in the fashion business is that they make money by selling their tastes to others. I’m pretty sure of my taste, my sense of colour and of sartorial propriety, but I’m still a long way off having the confidence to risk my own money selling that taste to others. Such is the risk of business. Will Boehlke in San...

Nonnative Waterproof Sneakers

Posted by

Nonnative_Waterproof_01-tile
Waterproof shoes! So many of us could use a pair of these, and don't they look better than the standard rubber galosh version? Nonnative's waterproof sneakers flaunt an interesting upper called "money-suede cowskin," which is lined with Gore-Tex. The rest of these Japanese-made sneakers is done in traditional basketball styling, so you balance out the tricks with classic looks. For the buying...

Consider a wool tie

Posted by

Panta Clothing unlined wool tie
As the seasons change and the weather gets a little cooler, wool ties are a nice way to freshen up an outfit and reflect the thicker, more substantial clothes of autumn. There are, however, a few important points to bear in mind.

Aviator Cap at Oak

Posted by

oak_black_aviator_01
For the right daring guy, this Oak black aviator cap could be perfect. It has the shape and the findings of a traditional cap, but it's fashioned in a texture-rich lambskin and lined with quality toscana shearling. If you anticipate that this could be something your better half might try stealing, there's sizing recommendation for the ladies on Oak's website as well. Nice unisex piece, wouldn't...

Buy some grey flannels

Posted by

Grey flannel trousers
I recommend to you, the grey flannel trouser. For wear as an alternative to jeans, for wear with almost any kind of jacket you can think of, and for wear as a delightful foil to all types and shades of leather footwear.

The chambray blazer

Posted by

The chambray blazer
  A few of the smaller, independent clothing manufacturers deliberately produce clothes in very small batches. A good example in the UK is Albam, a producer of casual wear that has much in common with the tailors of this world in terms of its attention to fit and cloth above fashion.

Zara Cozy Pieces for Fall 2010

Posted by

Zara_Fall_03
Zara's sweaters and blazers leave us wishing that our flat fireplace were functional. Zara's best looks include pieces with statement buttons and double-breasted styles. Thick knits and wool coats are two of our top selections from the lookbook, but the heavier tops and slim bottoms make for an excellent silhouette with leather shoes and scarves. [via the fashionisto]

The pleasure of a hat in the rain

Posted by

Humphrey_Bogart_in_The_Big_Sleep_trailer
Bogey stands at the corner, spotlit by the street lamp, rain thudding down onto his hat and streaming off the brim. He grasps the lapels of his raincoat, pulling them tight against his neck and hunching up his shoulders. As a gentleman and lady companion emerge from the building opposite, the camera zooms in on Bogey’s hangdog features. He utters a cynical and cryptic, yet characteristically...

How to give a six-fold body

Posted by

This is a seven fold (there's one more fold hidden in the middle). Notice how the sides overlap slightly
A six-fold tie is a beautiful thing. The way the hand-finished edges curl up inside each other in the body of the tie, the layers of silk creating that volume that a tie requires through their own support, in absence of the normal wool or hair lining.

Activist Eyewear Fall 2010

Posted by

Activis Fall 2010 02
Activist's eyewear for the season come with a behind-the-neck strap, a hint at all the stuff you might end up doing in them. These shades for Fall 2010 have the details taken care of with a classic frame, including a little cleaning square, a case, and two security ties in black and red. Made in Japan and more than serviceable, these can be your seasonal "smart buy." [via hypebeast]

How to iron your shirt

Posted by

Ironing
About halfway through this post you will probably start thinking: “what this really needs is a video”. You’re probably right, but I don’t have a video camera or the patience to re-record the piece several times until I get it right all the way through. You can pause when you’re typing. And press undo.

Fours stitches to spot in a suit

Posted by

This is the front. But the biggest difference is on the back
There are many ways to try and judge the quality of a ready-to-wear suit. The most obvious is the use of a floating canvas (padding in the chest that is sewn loosely in rather than glued to the front of the suit). But apparently Matalan is now offering suits with floating (though half) canvas for under £100.