The different formalities of shoes

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This is a casual shoe. Can you point out why?
As with much of menswear, there exists a sliding scale of the formality of footwear that the obsessive can get caught up in if he so chooses. I think this is generally to sacrifice the beauty of personal expression to the uniformity of correctness – a correctness that doesn’t exist today and, much to the disappointment of many, never existed in the first place. (It is a...

What have you learned from bespoke?

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He would have been measured like this. You shouldn't be
This was a question put to me the other day by a friend. He was asking about shoes, but I think it applies equally to suiting, shirts and other items of dress. Hopefully you will find my response interesting.

The perfect polo shirt

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Al Bazar Polo Shirt
Shirts can be hard to wear casually. Even the biggest fan of bespoke shirting for wear with his suits during the working week can find himself defaulting to a T-shirt under knitwear at the weekend. I suggest the alternative of a long-sleeved polo shirt.

Mr. Hare King Tubby & Camus

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Mr_Hare_King_Tubby-tile
Mr. Hare's S/S 2011 shoes are here, and the newest ones are available at LN-CC now. Two of the nicely turned-out Mr. Hares are the King Tubby (white outsoles and black suede/leather) and the Camus Lace-Up (black patent leather with a black leather sole). The King Tubbys are available in a range of 39 to 46--respectable--and the Camus starts at 40 on LN-CC. Shoebags included, of course. [via...

Remember texture

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Drake's grenadine tie
I think if you were to categorise the main aspects of cloth, they would fall into colour, pattern and texture. That’s probably the order most men would notice those aspects in as well, but I would argue their importance is the other way around.

Y-3 F/W 2011-12

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Y-3's honoring a decade with Yohji Yamamoto--times flies--and they gave the first peeks this week in Paris. "Nature" and "escape" are two prime points of inspiration, with army green heavily represented in the collection. Japanese print and printed sneakers break up the solids, and comfort junkies will find solace in knitted pants and sweats. [via selectism]

The Best Marilyn Monroe Shots You've Never Seen

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Via Notamachine.tumblr.com
Marilyn Monroe: incredible beauty, icon, the center of heady conspiracy theories. We've gotten to know her oft-repeated snaps, from The Seven Year Itch subway-grate picture in the white dress to her Last Sitting images by Bert Stern (unfortunately replicated with Lindsay Lohan by the same photographer). These photos--some of the lesser-known ones of Marilyn Monroe that turn...

My daily inspiration

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Tommy Ton at Pittu Uomo
I wouldn’t wish that everyone dressed like me. But it’s hard sometimes to find inspiration for the day’s dress when all around you is a sea of jogging bottoms, polyester and denim. For those that get great pleasure from thinking about what they wear, and a particular thrill from a well-cut jacket and starch-sharp shirt collar, this is my experience on where I find my daily...

Simple Leather Duffle, Marc by Marc Jacobs

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leather_duffle_01
Need something to stow your stuff in that's not going to get dated, wear out, or stain? The Marc by Marc Jacobs duffle bag is fashioned in simple leather, with an exposed zip closure and a logo-embossed patch. Lined in beige canvas, this bag is an example of basic at its best. Tone-on-tone stitching leaves the leather looking as expensive as it should. [$500 at ssense]

The best books on men’s style

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Dressing the Man Alan Flusser
Classic men’s style is well suited to scholarly erudition, based as it is in so much history and the trends that speak of centuries rather than seasons. But reading the history of men’s clothing won’t get you very far towards knowing what to wear yourself. You need both. And the best books that have been written on classic men’s style include a mix, albeit with varying degrees of...

Alexander McQueen Spotlight Wool Cardigan

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Alexander McQueen's Spotlight Sweater combines a splash of black and white on a long-sleeved silhouette with a trim fit. Since we're only dreaming of spring (but dressing for winter), the Spotlight Sweater can lift our spirits as we wait this season out. Simple winter dressing now; freezing-night-at-the-beach layer later. [$1070 at oki-ni]

How to wear tailoring without a suit

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A jacket like this but, you know, well made
Suits don’t necessarily fit into everyone’s day-to-day life. For some, in an office full of corporate lawyers, a suit is a necessity and a uniform. It is almost harder to take an interest in clothing that is imposed on you in this way. For other men, the barrier to developing a sartorial interest is the lack of suits in the office. Dressing up when everyone else is dressed down will draw...

Chancing a bow tie

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Wool bow tie
Bow ties are a tricky proposition for a man not accustomed to wearing them. While it is an item of clothing that could easily seem anachronistic, rather like braces or a fedora, the bow tie has the added disadvantage of being purely decorative. At least braces create the best line in a trouser leg and hats keep you warm and dry. A bow tie is mere fancy.

The basics are blue and grey

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Beau favoured blue, white and buff. All the time
  Formal dress is built on a very simple colour palette, which was initiated by the regency dandy Beau Brummel. Despite its use today, the original meaning of the word ‘dandy’ was one who was fastidious about his appearance but with the intention of producing perfect simplicity. So his palette was modest: blue, white, occasionally buff, and black for accessories.

Visit Trunk Clothiers

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Trunk Clothiers
A couple of weeks ago a reader of my blog, Permament Style, asked me what shops he should make sure he visited in London. He was coming over from the United States for a week and wanted to visit any store that could be considered unique to London. Bespoke suits and high-end shoes were out of his price range, so it was a question of dissecting the high street.

Dr Martens x URSUS Bape Saddle Shoes

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bape_saddle_shoes_01
BAPE and URSUS developed a pair of saddle shoes with Dr. Martens that are on the release schedule for 2011. The three colorways include a red, brown, and black, all on an unusual medium-grey ground. The Dr Martens giveaway is, of course, those incredible soles and stitching, which are chunky to make the expected Dr Martens "pow!" Clean uppers with classic saddle shoe shaping. [via slamxhype]

Nikolaj by Nikolaj d'Etoiles S/S 2011

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The poses might be tough to take all at once, but this lookbook was responsible for some serious summertime dreaming--and right before the change of seasons, too! The Nikolaj by Nikolaj d'Etoiles S/S 2011 collection is a clean and crisp one, with longer, tailored shorts, blazers, nautical stripes, and casual separates. Developed in a palette of navy, white, and stone, one piece will go with...

Behind the scenes at Anderson & Sheppard

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An image from Anderson & Sheppard's new blog, The Notebook
It’s rare that you get to see something you own being made. Most of the stuff on the high street the manufacturers wouldn’t want you to see being produced – rather like sausages, I suppose. And, like sausages again, you wouldn’t want to see them being made because it would quickly put you off your favourite brands. Factories are not pretty places. Even if...

Shades of Grey Slim Fit Trousers

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Shades of Grey's slim-fit trousers are smartly fashioned from glen plaid in... shades of grey (plus black and white). These slim tone-on-tone trousers have a button on the coin pocket and another at the waist. In 100% cotton, you should exercise caution when it comes to care (machine wash cold), or you could end up with a pair of trousers that are much too slim for the average wearer....

Stefan Marx x Colab Sunglasses

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Stefan_Marx_Shades
A collaboration on a pair of shades (Stefan Marx x Colab) results in a stunning pair of metal and acetate glasses for the collector. These Stefan Marx x Colab Sunglasses are available in both black and tortoiseshell, with a simple shape and just a few sleek touches along the nose bridge and frames. Colette has them now, and the buying link is over at hypebeast. $264. [via hypebeast]