Picking suit cloth: tweed, linen and the rest

Note the salt and pepper look of Donegal

Time was, a man would only wear tweed or linen at the weekend. The dignity of business necessitated sleeker cloths during the week. Now in many offices round the world, a man is smart if he wears a jacket of any material. A sharply cut jacket in grey Donegal tweed is still a lot smarter than a sweater. So knowing how to wear tweed, linen and all the various incarnations of cotton is an important skill.

Tweed is felted or roughly finished wool that is woven with several differently dyed yarns. It is not just checked wool, as some manufacturers would have you believe. Indeed, the most interesting tweeds are usually not checked, but distinguished for the number of bright colours combined into a subtle overall tone.

Harris tweeds have to be woven on the Scottish Isle of Harris, though the production is much curtailed since the takeover by Brian Haggas of two mills there a few years ago. Tweed of the Harris type generally has one general colour but many variegated yarns, as described above. Donegal tweed, from that region of Ireland, is distinct in having bigger flecks of a secondary colour, such as yellow in green or white in grey, and is less commonly patterned.

Best to start with a classic green Harris tweed for a jacket. Single breasted, slanted pockets and probably three buttons. Often the style is of the old hacking used for horse riding, hence it will have a relatively high waist button and a long centre vent.

Do, however, consider a plainer or more conservative colour for office or general city wear. Grey, pale blue or a very dark green can look just as smart as some worsteds, if cut well and with fewer bright yarns in the mix. Worsted rarely works as an odd jacket, and a cashmere blazer might seem too obvious – in that scenario smart tweed is by far the best choice.

Linen is the king of summer cloths and for good reason. It is absorbent and dries quickly, taking moisture away from the skin. It is usually in a looser weave than most wools or cottons and therefore allows more air through it. And in heavier weights in doesn’t so much wrinkle and rumple, making it still relatively smart: aim for 13 or 14 ounces.

Linen is most usually made up for suitings in cream, tan and blue. The second of those is my favourite, but you may feel that it is only really appropriate for garden parties or strolling around town on the sunniest of days. In that case go for blue. Navy may look as if are just wearing a rumpled business suit, so I recommend something a little brighter.

Cashmere is the wintery down from the hircus goat of Mongolia, combed from the animals before it falls off naturally in the spring. It is finer than normal wools and so softer. Best suited to separate jackets or overcoats though. In a full suit cashmere would be heavy and, being soft, not drape as well either. Vicuña is from small and rare camel-like creatures. It is even finer, making is very soft but a little sleek as well. Best kept for luxurious overcoats.

Other, minor cloth options:

• Mohair is the hair of the angora goat, lightweight but with a slight sheen. This makes it cool but sometimes flashy. Mohair mixes can get the best of both.
• Hopsack is a loose weave of worsted wool that is therefore more textured but also breathable. Good for blazers.
• Fresco is a patented formulation of worsted wool that is smooth and lightweight
• Gabardine is a tight twill in wool, cotton or anything else. Good for trousers or can make a nice alternative to linen in a summer suit
• Seersucker is a ribbed cotton cloth popular only in the US. Best to avoid except as a summer jacket