Buy suits that suit your body

Fred Astaire kept his clothes full to disguise his slight figure

The subtleties of a suit’s design can make a disproportionate difference to how it flatters your figure. Tall or short, fat or thin, even average build, there are things you should watch when buying a suit – or indeed, commissioning bespoke.

Let’s start with the short man. e HeHe needs to avoid any excess cloth as this will add to his bulk and hence his short stature. So a close, not to say a narrow, fit. On the jacket he should go for one or maximum two buttons. The more buttons there are, the more horizontal points break up the front of the jacket.

And, probably more importantly, the shorter the lapels have to be. The sweep of a suit’s lapel from neck to waist is the strongest line in the suit and potentially its most flattering. So keep that line as long as possible if you want to appear tall. The difference between one and two buttons is small, as the waist button will not move much with the addition of a button below it.

The jacket’s waist should be quite tight, or ‘suppressed’, in line with the theme of keeping cloth to a minimum. The waist of the trousers, meanwhile, should be high and at a man’s natural waist (around the belly button, if not higher). This may feel unnatural to some, but it does make the legs appear longer and produce cleaner lines in the pleats as they drop over the hip bone. If you go for a lower rise, make sure you have slim legs and sharp creases on the trousers.

The jacket should be relatively short in order to, again, lengthen the legs. Nothing is worse for a short man than a jacket that swamps him, whether on the arms, waist or hips. High vents will add to the impression of height; though if you can resist the urge to put your hands in your pockets, a ventless jacket is even better.

Anything that removes bulk from the look of the suit is also beneficial. So avoid ticket pockets, large pocket flaps, patch pockets, pocket handkerchiefs and cuffs on either the sleeves or trousers. All interrupt the long, clean lines we’re aiming for. If the notch in the lapel can be a little higher, that’ll help too.

Think of bulk also in the choice of cloth. Darker, finer wools will create a sharp silhouette. Avoid pale tones, bright colours and large patterns (particularly checks). A fine pinstripe, however, can elongate. As to the rest of the outfit, dark shoes and a simple tie will accentuate the look, and avoid the contrast of sports jackets or odd waistcoats.

Now reverse all that for a tall man. Interrupt the look at every possible opportunity: ticket pockets, patch pockets, broad checks and odd jackets. Wear a belt, have trouser cuffs and buy some brogues. The more texture the better. Throw the eye sideways with a pocket handkerchief and eschew a smooth silk tie. Wear a waistcoat, wear a watch, have your sleeves a touch shorter so there is always a half-inch of shirt cuff on display. Anything to break up the lines.

Large men and thin men have the same tools at their disposal. The thin should ape the tactics of the tall man, the fat man those of the short. If you are tall and fat, or thin and short, consider your priorities and apply accordingly. Men tend to want to avoid the latter of those two pairs most.